Monthly Archives: Friday July 22nd, 2022

Wind from south and to the airport

The next day really does get hot and after breakfast we immediately head to the beach again. After all these weeks with cold wind and rain we enjoy every minute of sun – and especially going swimming ! As we row back to our boat in the afternoon we count no less than 45 boats. After lunch, we decide to leave today as tomorrow we’ll have the wind against us.

Als wir nach der grossen Hitze lossegeln, ist der Ankerplatz echt voll.Raus auf die SeeEnge, felsige Fahrwasser.Ab und an passiert auch was...

First we sail a bit, then we run under engine. We head south towards Göteborg again and on the we we’ll look if we find a nice spot to maybe drop the anchor. We nearly decided to go into the marina as we finally spot a little beach on the little island Rivö just a few miles from G. – The sun is already gone and we drop the anchor in the last light in 6m water.

Geht aber NOCH enger ! - Und da parkt noch einer in zweiter Spur... (DHL Fahrer ?)Kilian eingeschlafenIm Juli sieht man hinter jedem Felshubbel Schiffe stehnWunderschönes Licht und Segeln bis in den späten Abend

Die Sonne geht langsam unter... Bei Ankunft, Gestern waren wir alleine...Beach day !Kilian im Dinghy-Schatten

Kilian is extremely happy in the water, although it is just about 20°. And for Moana the best is when I row her around in our little blue dinghy and she can tell me where to go.  To spend another night at anchor definatly was a good choice. But later that day when the first clouds appear, we move to the marina because we’ll meet friends from a time long ago. The too were sailing through the Pacific. Back then just the two of them in a small 26″ boat. Now they have two golden haired children and are searching for a larger boat to move aboard in about a year’s time. We spend some wonderful hours together, laugh about the past and dream about the future.

Grosse Marina. Lange StegeAm SpielplatzJuhuu !! Wir sehen die crew der SY Ninita wieder !Die Kinder verstehen sich sofort - trotz unterschiedlicher Sprachen

The future … Yeah. Gui will fly back to Berlin with the two small ones… The destination is Rügen and that’s another 200 miles. I will sail these with Viola together. That isn’t exactly as it was planned but it will be better for everyone. We’ll meet again in Rügen and spend some more days at the beach together. Kilian is still too small for these longer distances as he just started crawling and walking a few days ago and that is not a good time to be ona a moving boat.

Auf der StangeMoana unterhält Kilian im Cafeund dirigiert uns was am SpielplatzGui und die Kleinen fliegen zurück nach Berlin

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From Norway back to Sweden

On Sunday we wait until the wind eases a bit and leave the little island Flekkeroy in the afternoon. As we round the northern tip, we shift the genoa and try to get comfortable under our cockpit roof.

Abfahrt noch mit dunklen Wolken, aber etwas weniger WindSchleicht sich ein Kreuzfahrtsschiff um die EckeUnd drängt uns ganz an den Rand des FahrwassersLeuchtturm Oksøy, letzter Landkontakt in Norwegen

While sailing out, a cruise ship sneaks up behind us and forces us to go higher on the wind. But soon it is past us, we leave the lighthouse Oksøy behind and set course 110°. That should get us just past the south-east tip of the traffic seperation area north of here. Also it’s a convenient course as it will take us out of the counter current sooner and we hope to enter the NW setting current somewhere midway. We have wind from WSW to W with five to six beaufort. That is a bit more than was announced and we rapidly leave Norway behind.

Mit 6.5kn raus in den berüchtigten SkagerrakNorwegen verschwindet bald am HorizontWenn wir SE-Ecke des Verkehrstrennungsgebietes passiert haben, fallen wir etwas abStrömungsverhältnisse im Skagerrak

But the wind against current situation creates really ugly waves and a few hours later Moana gets seasick. Kilian also wakes up and so Gui tries to keep lookout in the cockpit while I am in the forepeak changing diapers. One should be well on the lookout around here as there is a lot of traffic and some ferries are really crazy fast.

The trip doesn’t start too nice. We have too much wind and the kids keep us very busy. – But what could we expect ?

Es wird etwas ruppiger und rolligerMoana verträgt das leider nicht gutSchlaf-VersuchRasende rote Rennfähre

At some stage both little ones fall asleep and it is a bit easier on the watch. Dozens of freighters, tankers and fishing vessels pass us on the starbord side. All coming from the baltic and heading down towards the english channel. During the very short phase of semi-darkness, between midnight and about two in the morning, a cruise ship is coming towards us and passes close by.  A bit north of Skagen, in the early morning we meet the only other sailboat. We did have mobile reception while sailing past Skagen from a distance of about 12nm and then again from 22nm west of the swedish coast. Quite irritating to suddenly receive messages in the middle of nowhere with no land in sight.

Party mitten in der Nacht, irgendwo NW von SkagenWir haben hier echt Mobilfunkempfang !Endlich mal wieder ein Sonnenaufgang auf SeeLand in Sicht !

In the early afternoon we arrive in Slubberholmens, a beautiful little anchorage, friends of us suggested. While entering, there are only (?) four other boats. It is warm and tomorrow it is supposed to get really hot. So we eat a sandwich and quickly inflate both dinghy und SUP and head for the beach ! The children are immediately happy and play with the sand in the fingers, in the water and explore the island. We spend a wonderful afternoon at the little island and head back to the boat when the small kids get tired. The tension of the at times agonizing trip falls of me and as we paddle back to the boat we realize how full the anchorage has become. We eat and soon fall into the beds.

Der Anker fällt in 9m glasklares Wasser, die Sonne kommt raus.LandfallBlick hinausBlick zur offenen See und zur Einfahrt, die Dragon steht rechts um's Eck

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A lot of wind around the corner

We have a lot of wind these days and while in Egersund we decided to stay for a day and let the big rainfronts pass while we are in the local library. In the afternoon the sun comes out, the laundry is dry and we go for a little hike up the hill and around the little town.

Einfahrt in die Schären vor FarsundFischerdorf am WegDas unfassbar gelegene Farsund - das gelbe Gebäude ist die Schule.Moana: no.

Next day we sail to Farsund, where I’ve already been with Bruno on the way up. This harbour is very convenient as it’s right after (or before) one of these peninsulas and as we come down, we’re glad to have passed it in rather nice conditions. These points can be quite dangerous and the wind always picks up a bit on these corners.

Aufbruch um die Südspitze von NorwegenViel Wind, heute.Vor allem, wenn man gegenan möchteImmer etwas mehr Wind, um die Landzungen

We actually wanted to stay in Farsund and let the stronger wind pass but the sky is blue and the sun is shining, so we decide to leave anyway. The wind is strong but constant, without any rain or fronts. Although the waves are significantly higher and we have more than 30 knots of wind south of Lindesnes, the small ones and Gui take it a lot better than on our trip to Egersund. Then we had less wind but swell coming from an odd angle which really made the trip a challenge for the whole crew.

Die Westseite von FlekkerøyDie schickem Schiff

Our last night in Norway we spend in a little bay at the northwest side of Flekkerøya, in Åshavn. We are quite surprised to see that the little island is connected via tunnel to the main land. As usual after arriving, we take a little hike and walk to the east side of the little island where we find some beautiful anchor spots between the skerries. Otherwise there is not much here. A supermarket, lots of small beautiful houses with flowers and electric cars in front, green hills over grey rocks and crystal clear green water that is too cold for me to go swimming.

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Back south again

Right after dropping Bruno off at the airport, we head out and sail past the north tip of the little peninsula that is home to Stavanger on the inside and Tananger on the outer, westside. Today we have wind from south so we sail a few very sporty tacks and enter the little, very sympatic harbour.

Fjordcruiser coming very close while we try to stay as close hauled as possibleThe girls lie in bed with boat heeling and rolling in the wavesMarkerTananger Gjesthavn

Again we find ourselves a bit in a hurry as the next stretch of coast is the one with the ‘dangerous waves’ marking and there is this gigantic low between Iceland and Scotland and it’s coming closer fast. So next morning we head out again as soon as we see the wind change more towards the west.

Sailing with the roof upEntering the skerris west of EgersundThe nymph greeting the sailors...IMGP1084

The ride is bumpy and for a while Moana gets a little sea sick. But in the evening we are glad that we are a bit further south and again in the beautiful Egersund. This time in the marina – laundry needs to be done and we’ll wait until friday for the wind to ease a little bit. Then we’ll try to round the next little peninsula and hope to make it to Farsund. We’ll see how our plan works out. Uh. Let’s check the weather again….

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In the Lysefjord

After seeing the Hardangerfjord only in the rain, we were quite lucky with the weather in the Lysefjord. Going towards, through the Høgsfjord we had very lovely wind and above 20°C which is quite warm up here.  At the entrance to the Lysefjord we stop at the gas station to top up our little 50l tank. Tomorrow there will be less wind and deep in the fjord there won’t be much left of it.

Durch die Schären östlich von StavangerEinfahrt in den LysefjordIMGP0842Viele Schiffe sehen wir diese Tage nicht (sehr überraschend !)

The entrance to the fjord is marked by a huge bridge and starting here, the wind became very ‘fjordy’ – meaning very light but with strong and surprising gusts dropping from the mountains.  The combination of absolutely breathtaking landscape with sudden gusts had me hold the main sheet in the left and the camera in the right.  – The good old Pentax with the 200mm zoom already traveled the world with us and still works great after more than 40.000 images.

Staunen - und nicht vergessen ab und an ein Foto machenAm Fähranleger in SongesandAuf EntdeckungstourChilian und ich

In the evening we tie up at the ferry dock in Songesand – in the outer most corner, which is the only place with more than 2m depth at low water.  Directly beside the little harbour a little stream, a mini waterfall and four go on discovery while little Kilian is already asleep and a fish curry is being prepared.

Nah am Ufer ? Hier ist's über 100m tief !Bilderbuch-Wasserfall, einer von vielenDer Preikestolen. Und es schaut jemand runterEndlich mal wieder ein SommertagDie Fahrt durch den Fjord dauert (zum Glück) Stunden. Am Ende Lysebotn und davor rechts der KjeragKjeragUnd der Kjeragsbolten. Da steht auch jemand drauf !

On the second day we pass a picturebook waterfall, sail past below the famous Preisektolen, east, deeper into the Lysefjord. The weather is fantastic, the wind absent and the day is so great it would be worth the long travel by itself. These nearly vertical mountain faces, hundreds of meters high. On both sides, everything sprinkled with lush green, reflected in the sea. No other boat but us, no other people except the one head looking down from the mountain. We go left and right and take a closer look at whatever we want. We sail east until we can see the Kjeragsbolten on the south side. We sail a big circle, visit yet another gorgeous waterfall and head back to the west.

Viola im Bugkorb, ein bekanntes Bild.Grün, Grau, Grün - die Flaggenfarben Norwegens, oder ?Wasserfallmehr Wasserfall

Without wind, we arrive in Stavanger at nine in the evening. Full with amazing impressions, with a light sunburn but also a little bit sad: Tomorrow I’ll have to bring Bruno to the airport. Nearly 700 miles we sailed together in the past three weeks. And it’s been a beautiful and very harmonic time. It also made me very proud and happy to see how enthusiastic Bruno is about sailing. The fastest trips were his favourite, the most exciting the days tacking through the swedish skerries and when it was raining and we had to reanchor a third time in the pouring rain, he never lost his humour. But for six people, the boat really is a bit small and our cats need someone to take care about them…

DA ! Ein Fischotter ! (zu schnell für die Kamera)Genug Landschaft gesehenEs kündigt sich bereits wieder anderes Wetter anBruno fliegt zurück nach Berlin

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From the Hardangerfjord back to Stavanger

It seems that the closer one is to Bergen and the deeper in a fjord, the more it rains. – After two days with only very short breaks of sunshine we decide to leave and sail southward again.

Leaving the rainclouds behind usIMGP0730Everybody staying inside, dry and warmIMGP0783

The rainclouds are soon left behind and as we get closer to the open sea, the wind picks up. Soon we’re sailing with more than six knots again and the kids stay below to play, sleep and eat. The whole day we sail out of the Hardanger fjord and in the evening we arrive in Haugsund. Moana and me take a little walk while little Kilian is about to go to bed.

Reminders of The ferry at the charging stationHaugsund, looking northHaugsund, looking south

Everywhere in Norway we see the trails of the oil industry: oil rigs, gigantic working vessels and cranes… but also the clean future: in some cities a third of the cars is electric and even the fjord-ferries and small cruise ships are electric and can be found at the charging station when night comes. Even the large cargo vessels and cruise ships have proper cleaning systems and run without leaving a dirty yellow-brown trail in the sky. When the dirty money from the short oil boom is invested wisely, this is possible…

In Vikevåg harbourAt the beachA beautiful little beach (water: ~16°C)Moana, fascinated with plants and trees

Another short stop we make in Vikevåg, where we are lucky with the weather and also find a small beach not far from the fishing harbour where we tied up. From here it’s only a few miles to Stavanger where Viola will come on board and we’ll be all six on the boat for a few days.

Through the skerries towards StavangerIn the very noisy city harbour (Vågen)...with concert and night clubsViola arrived

In the ‘city harbour’ it is a bit noisy as it’s the party location of Stavanger, it seems. Also this harbour is completely unprotected to the west wind (that blows 90% of the time ;-) So next day we move the boat a tiny bit to Børeviga. Viola arrives at midnight from Berlin and next day we celebrate Gui’s birthday.

Beautiful wooden houses in the city centerKilian having fun - standing. :-)Colorful houses and cafesThe family is all together for Gui's birthday

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Bergen – Os – Rosendal

Gui, Moana and Kilian arrive at Sunset (~23:10h) in Bergen and after a Night at the Brygge and a little stroll through the neighbourhood, we move the Dragon (that sounds very nice ;-) … to a little Marina a bit south. There we have easier access to the boat as here in the city center we’re tied up to the harbour wall and at low tide have to climb up truck tires. The marina is also way more quiet and … there is a little artificial beach close by.

Bergen at nightBrygge, in between housesCity centerMarineholmen Gjestehavn

In Bergen (the city oif rain) we had really hot days with up to 27°C and so we actually spent an afternooon at the beach (beside Marineholmen Gjestehavn). But next day at noon we already wait for the pedestrian bridge to open, we want to see the fjords….

The sail south is nice in the beginning but soon we have a good amount of wind against us and with gusts up to 7 Bft, we are somewhat shaken and stirred when we drop the anchor in the little bay of Os. Twice Bruno has to pull up the iron again before it bites but then we finally fall asleep … with the raindrops drumming on the roof again.


Unfortunately the rain stays and so we miss some good views of the absolutely stunning landscapes we sail past. The wind is slightly more favourable and we have decent sailing conditions everywhere but in the Lokksund where the wind is straight at us and the sound is too narriow to tack. – Also there is really strong currents and swirls in the more narrow part.


After the Lokksund we don’t have to beat against the wind anymore and can relax a bit. We sail past two corners and behind a lengthy island appears Rosendal: mountains with still some snow, three waterfalls dropping onto lush, green hills… Straight out of a Bob Ross’ painting.


We take a little stroll through the lovely, little village and get some salmon for dinner. The walk to the waterfall we move to tomorrow in hope of better weather.


But today it rained nearly constantly and although I hurried up to the little waterfall with Kilian in the stroller, nobody really was into a longer walk in this weather. So we spend the time waiting for a hole in the clouds with books, paper and bingo. At the end of the day we did get a fat, double rainbow – which really made Moana’s day.

Tomorrow we will have to exit the fjord as Viola arrives on the 8th – in Stavanger – and we have to get there with difficult wind to sail, it seems.

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Farsund – Egersund – Skudneshavn – Hatlevik – Bergen

So much sailing and so little time to post… I’m getting behind it seems.


From Farsund we start with rain and thunder around the southwest corner of Norway. It will take hours of sailing until we finally see the clouds lift a bit to let us get a glance of the coastline… The sail is short but with a bit bumpy waves and in the evening we make stop in a gorgeous anchorage in the Egersund.


From Egersund northwards we find one of the very few stretches of coastline with no anchorages or harbours. We sail past Tananger and pull into Skudneshaven. Another one of these many old fishing villages. Next day, we sail through the Karmsund and the Stokkasund and make a last stop in a tiny, slim natural harbour called Hatlevik. To our amazement, the alignment is exactly right to see the sunset from our boat. Nice.


Last day towards Bergen, Bruno is very motivated and is steering for hours while we match ourselves with a slightly larger Bavaria 32. Somewhere in another sund, she sails east and we continue towards Bergen where we finally arrive in the early evening. We tie up in the very center of the city, at the “Brygge”. Bruno and me did 560 miles in 10 days  – not bad. We get a day off before Gui and the two small ones come from Berlin…

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